ARNAUD DONCKELE
Monsieur Donckele, at the age of 47, you have already achieved unprecedented success in the culinary world. You are Chef de Cuisine at Plénitude restaurant (Cheval Blanc Paris) and at La Vague d’Or (Cheval Blanc St-Tropez). Last summer, Louis Vuitton entrusted you with the management of the restaurant at the Hotel White 1921 in Saint-Tropez. How do you manage these responsibilities? And how much time do you spend at each of these locations?
My father has always advised me to never think that you have already achieved any type of success, otherwise, it will be the start of the collapse! I stand by this rule every day. I am a cook and I like to spend all my time in my kitchens. I split my agenda in half during summertime: the end of the week in Saint-Tropez and the rest in Paris. To maintain this agenda, my life is planned with a strict tempo in the summer. I am fortunate to be able to rely on a fantastic team, one that is loyal and highly motivated by our cuisine. They know the work perfectly and I know them by heart.
You have a deep connection to the land and to local producers, a heritage from your childhood on your grandparents’ farm in Normandy. As the son of charcutiers- traiteurs, how do you select the ingredients for your restaurants, and what role does sustainability play in your culinary process?
Cooking is all about encounters, and the first taste of your dish starts on the farm. As you mentioned, I have been raised on a farm and cooking with local products is obvious for me. La Vague d’Or reflects a Provencal cuisine, its roots coming from writers, habits, tastes, products, and encounters I have discovered in the region. My producers are all passionate and I strongly believe that cultivating the land is a way to reveal the best tastes.
In Paris, I have a different approach, as the flavours from all over France can be found in Paris. It does allow me to have a different approach at Plénitude and a huge field of creativity for my sauces.
As the Chef de Cuisine in several prestigious restaurants, you must have learned to lead effective teams. In your opinion, what are the key elements to building and maintaining a well-coordinated and productive kitchen team?
Passion. Managing my team is much more like a family group project than a classic management program. I could never open any restaurant alone. Organisation, passion, listening, decision are key. We wish to make our clients dream, and all team members should be proud of their work.
Do you see yourself more as an artist or a craftsman?
I am a craftsman! My work is a constant repetition of finetuning, of trying to find the perfect balance for a dish, of constantly searching for advancement. I do never forget that we cook the richness of the Earth... it is never the same fish, the same vegetable, or the same piece of meat. A French expression says: life is 90% sweat and 10% inspiration.
In the upcoming issue of AVIAIR Magazine, we are featuring an article about the Côte d’Azur and the Hotel Cheval Blanc in Saint-Tropez. Therefore, a question specifically about the Côte d’Azur: Which regional ingredients do you value the most here? And is there an ingredient without which you cannot imagine your kitchen?
The best ingredient in Saint-Tropez is the sun. It does bring flavour to all vegetables and all elements in a unique way. My favourite dish is a minute-made tomato soup. I cannot replicate it in Paris, the taste is not the same. I cannot answer your second question, to me it is all about curiosity and the encounters you have had.
COOKING IS ALL ABOUT ENCOUNTERS, AND THE FIRST TASTE OF YOUR DISH STARTS ON THE FARM.
Arnaud Donckele
Saint Tropez is a dreamy holiday destination known for luxury, summer freshness, and exquisite cuisine. What personally fascinates you the most about this quaint harbor town?
If you go on the harbour very early, you will meet fishermen coming back on their “Pointus”: a small wooden local boat. You will learn more about the Mediterranean Sea that in any books you can find!
How do you see the future of haute cuisine in a world that is increasingly focusing on sustainability and accessibility? Are there any trends or technologies that you find particularly exciting?
Sustainability is key. Transmitting to the new generation and listening to their goals is for me the main challenge. Allow the new generation to grow. They will design the most promising future.
Is there a new project or challenge you are looking forward to in the near future?
I just opened a 100% Japanese restaurant in Cheval Blanc Paris: Hakuba. I jumped into this Japanese world with Takuya Watanabe. Fascinating!
If we were to visit the Côte d’Azur this summer, when might we find you in Saint-Tropez?
I spent most of my day in my kitchen, at La Vague d’Or at Cheval Blanc St-Tropez of course!
And finally: Can you share a cooking tip that could improve home cooking?
Work with tasteful products and cook what you like to eat. A good olive oil on tomatoes, a grilled fish, a minute-roasted fig with a drop of honey, a nice Rosé “Pétale de Rose” from Saint-Tropez along with friends, family, and you have your paradise on Earth!
