In the remote mountains of northern Philippines, in a village called Buscalan in the province of Kalinga, lives Maria Whang-Od Oggay, known as Apo Whang-Od. In this place, reachable only by foot and through steep paths, amidst majestic peaks and gentle river flows, she is the legend to seek when it comes to the traditional tattoo body art of the indigenous population. Whang-Od captivates and enchants the world with her artworks and her presence as a Mambabatok.
A Life Dedicated to Babatok
According to tradition, a Mambabatok can only inherit the art of tattooing through lineage. If someone outside the bloodline is taught, it is said in Kalinga villages that the tattoo becomes infected. This rule is taken very seriously. Whang-Od was born in 1917 as the daughter of a Mambabatok and was introduced to the ancient art of tattooing by her father at a young age – into the tradition that has been rooted in her family for generations but is usually passed down only to male descendants. But Whang-Od was no ordinary young woman – her special talent and unwavering determination surpassed the bounds of patriarchal structures. Thus, she became the first female Mambabatok, an honor respectfully bestowed upon her by her community. Whang-Od herself was tattooed as a teenager. For each of her arms, the Mambabatok took a day - a painful affair, as tattooing with the old Batok technique is much more painful than modern, conventional techniques. The tattoo artist was paid with bags of rice, and when the tattoo was completed, her father slaughtered a pig to celebrate the occasion.
Tradition - Legacy - Heritage: The Guardian of Kalinga Culture
In a time dominated by technology and rapidity, Apo Whang-Od stands as a living relic of a bygone era as a Batok tattoo artist. At 106 years old, she is not only the oldest tattoo artist in the world but also the guardian of a centuries-old tradition of her Kalinga culture - and she was also the first woman in her tribe, known as the But-but Tribe, to become a tattoo artist, a Mambabatok. She still leaves her legacy in the form of ink on the skin of many locals and tourists.
Body And Mind, Fused in Body Art
But what is fascinating about tattoos? What has moved humanity for thousands of years to drive color under the skin, creating motifs that last a lifetime? Tattoos are said to have an unparalleled ability to reach into the depths of our soul beyond the physical shell. They are not just artistic illustrations on the skin but mirrors of our mental attitude. Viewed completely detached from spirituality, one could say that each tattoo has a transcendent effect, meaning that it stands not only for itself but also for something else. In the case of traditional tribal tattoos, for example, it represents belonging. Or it connects the wearer with a characteristic like strength or fertility. But modern tattoos also have this second layer of meaning. They may remind the wearer of an event or people, manifest a character trait or value, or emphasize the personal sense of beauty. Tattoos are not worn like a second skin – they are our skin. They are us. They belong to our identity, our self, they reflect it. And underline our individuality.
The process of tattooing itself is a ritual of self-discovery and self-realization. Through the intense pain and emotional resonance, a deep connection is formed between the tattoo artist and the tattooed person that goes beyond the physical level.
Signature with Three Dots
The visitors who come to Whang-Od in Buscalan to get tattooed are full of positive energy and anticipation. They eagerly await the event and wait for hours in respectful distance for their short session with Whang-Od – short because nowadays, the Mambabatok only performs her characteristic three-dot pattern. She has passed on the art form to her two grandnieces, 26-year-old Grace Palicas and 23-year-old Elyang Wigan. Nowadays, only the younger tattoo artists apply the traditional patterns to the skin of the people who have made the journey to the mountain village. The motifs are predetermined, with a selection of about 20 designs, each with its own meaning, such as protection, orientation, or a long life. Wang-Od tattoos the three dots as a kind of autograph after her nieces have tattooed the motif. She says she will continue to do this as long as her eyes can see.
As one moves through Whang-Od's small hometown, one listens in vain for the buzz of tattoo machines - Batok uses traditional techniques where a thorn on a bamboo stick is dipped in soot and natural dye. This is then tapped into the skin with another piece of wood, being driven in over a hundred times per minute. The characteristic wooden tapping can be heard from afar, almost meditative in nature.
A Mambabatok is a tattoo artist who uses exclusively old, traditional techniques to create ritualistic motifs. The needle is driven into the skin at high speed using a tapping technique, depositing the ink beneath the skin's surface. Moreover, the Mambabatok fulfills social roles, offers advice on problems, makes prophecies, and helps with tattoos for infertility or illness.
Ritual Motifs for Fighting Power and Beauty
For women, Batoks have been and still are aesthetic embellishments and beauty and fertility marks; they are worn for a lifetime like jewelry and often cover large parts of the body. Men received the tattoos to mark heroic deeds in battle or social status. They often consist of repeating geometric patterns and stylized images of various animals, plants, or even humans. They also contain heavenly depictions of the sun, moon, and stars, as well as other natural phenomena such as lightning, mountains, or water. Large chest tattoos on men, known as Bikking, marked them as headhunter warriors. The works could take several days, and the embellishment of a warrior was carried out as a ritual that could last two or more years. For those who visit the small village in the mountains today, the geometric patterns and lines they take home are, of course, also body jewelry - but much more. They are memories of an ancient ritual and a fascinating artist, they are a source of inspiration and emotion, and they symbolize the bridge between physical and mental realms.
WHY NOT KEEP TATTOOING WHILE I CAN SEE?
Apo Whang-Od
